Maintenance: why you should check the whole hull when blacking

Check the whole hull

Check the whole hull - Credit: Archant

Save yourself time, money and problems later on by checking the whole hull when you hook your boat out of the water for blacking

Worn anodes

Worn anodes - Credit: Archant

ANODES

They might be an obvious item to check, but watch out for new ones being fitted and old, worn out ones being left on. The hull can rust behind them. Much better for old ones to be removed completely and then the hull to be blacked where they were.

Rudder cup

Rudder cup - Credit: Archant

RUDDER CUP

Often forgotten at the bottom but it can become worn giving you a ‘loose’ tiller. It’s easy enough to have a bush fitted.

Rudder post

Rudder post - Credit: Archant

RUDDER POST

The number of boats we’ve been on where there’s wear here… check it now while the boat’s out of the water.

Prop nut

Prop nut - Credit: Archant

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PROP NUT

No jokes from us, the cut is littered with props so check the nut is tight and, crucially, the split pin is whole.

Rudder stop

Rudder stop - Credit: Archant

RUDDER STOP

If you don’t have one, this is what can happen – wear on both the rudder and boat. Get one welded on.

Galley outlet

Galley outlet - Credit: Archant

GALLEY OUTLET

Often forgotten, but think chemicals in washing-up liquids, so check for corrosion – unless you use Ecover.

Chine

Chine - Credit: Archant

CHINE

The baseplate should protrude about 1cm, but it will wear down and if it’s flush with the hull, as can be seen here, it needs a piece adding.

Galvanic corrosion

Galvanic corrosion - Credit: Archant

GALVANIC CORROSION

You should pick this one up anyway, but look out for it, what’s caused it and maybe fit a galvanic isolator.

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