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Maintenance: why you should check the whole hull when blacking

PUBLISHED: 17:02 19 January 2017 | UPDATED: 17:19 19 January 2017

Check the whole hull

Check the whole hull

Archant

Save yourself time, money and problems later on by checking the whole hull when you hook your boat out of the water for blacking

ANODES

They might be an obvious item to check, but watch out for new ones being fitted and old, worn out ones being left on. The hull can rust behind them. Much better for old ones to be removed completely and then the hull to be blacked where they were.

Worn anodes Worn anodes

RUDDER CUP

Often forgotten at the bottom but it can become worn giving you a ‘loose’ tiller. It’s easy enough to have a bush fitted.

Rudder cup Rudder cup

RUDDER POST

The number of boats we’ve been on where there’s wear here… check it now while the boat’s out of the water.

Rudder post Rudder post

PROP NUT

No jokes from us, the cut is littered with props so check the nut is tight and, crucially, the split pin is whole.

Prop nut Prop nut

RUDDER STOP

If you don’t have one, this is what can happen – wear on both the rudder and boat. Get one welded on.

Rudder stop Rudder stop

GALLEY OUTLET

Often forgotten, but think chemicals in washing-up liquids, so check for corrosion – unless you use Ecover.

Galley outlet Galley outlet

CHINE

The baseplate should protrude about 1cm, but it will wear down and if it’s flush with the hull, as can be seen here, it needs a piece adding.

Chine Chine

GALVANIC CORROSION

You should pick this one up anyway, but look out for it, what’s caused it and maybe fit a galvanic isolator.

Galvanic corrosion Galvanic corrosion

____________________

You may also like:

Maintenance: catching corrosion

Steve Haywood: Ins and outs of the baseplate debate

How to make sure your narrowboat is heating up properly

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